Traveling alone as a woman has taught me that many many people live their lives in a world heavily restricted by unneccesary and irrational fears. Countless times I have been told - oh no, don't do that!! It's not safe! Or my favorire - it's not safe for you. Haha! What the hell is that about?!
I fell for this many times in India. I didn't know how things worked and of course I wanted to be aware of any real threats to my person. But I see now how often these "real dangers" are complete bollocks. By the end of my time in India I had done every single thing I had been told not to. And those things were 100% more interesting, more exciting, more adventurous, and yet felt 100% safe.
As often happens in life, the second you try something you are scared of and see the reality of how it works and how it will play out, you see what the actual risks might be - and they are almost always far less (if they exist at all!) than what other people, or even you, got into your head.
So if there is something you want to do, educated yourself with as many knowable facts as you can and take other people's advice as a well intention means of keeping your life as bland as theirs. If your reasearch makes you think you can do it and your guts feel the same then take the dive and ignore any advice that doesn't add up with what you know. You'll have a much more enjoyable ride!!!
Sunday, April 8, 2012
Monday, April 2, 2012
Rajasthan #2 - Udaipur
I ended up in Udaipur not as a matter of planning but as a spontaneous reaction to a conversation with a Spanish woman in the tourist line at the train station in Jaipur. We were commiserating over the tedious system of train booking (which ironically is what gave us the time to chat) while she was helping me limp through my first attempt at booking a ticket. I had several possible destinations in mind but Udaipur wasn't one of them. Based on her recommendation though, I changed plans at the last minute.
The next day I took my first Indian train- the bustling station alone is an adventure in itself! Luckily I managed to get a window seat - much to the consternation of a lady who thought it was hers, a situation that resulted in me playing the role of a naive and apologetic tourist just doing what I was told - so I was able to watch to countryside for the entire six hour journey.
We arrived quite late so I shared a rickshaw with a guy from the train. The one nice thing about standing out as a tourist is that all the tourists stand out so it is easy to team up when things are new and uncertain. It makes things seem much less overwhelming! The guest house was pretty nice. Big rooms and private showers for 300 rupees (£4.50) which is a bit more then I wanted to spend really but was the best deal I could find. The owner was a strange little dude who refused to let us go to our rooms and instead insisted we hang out and chat on the rooftop restaurant (a common feature of Rajasthani hotels as it turns out). Mostly he wanted to feel out what services he could add on to our time at his place. In the end, he was genuinely nice to me so I think he is an ok guy, but that night I was just so tired of politely turning down offers of "help" and all I wanted was to be alone, not forced to chit chat with him and lie about my plans so he saw I didn't need anything. The tedium was lessened, however, by the spectacular view from the terrace. A truly beautiful city!
The experience the first night was the only really annoying one I had in Udaipur though. I found the town to be much less pushy than other places. I could happily peruse the goods at street stalls without anyone pressuring me or sometimes even being close at hand. I felt so free to walk around that it was essentially all I did for two of my three days.
The first day I wandered the streets taking pictures and chatting with locals. The second day- after spending five hours with the kindest, most patient travel agent in the history of the world who booked all my train tickets so I didn't have to repeat my time in Jaipur - I walked to the lake where the townspeople were washing their clothes, bathing, swimming and generally having a spectacular time enjoying the cool evening breeze just before sunset. I met an American guy and his little girl who, along with his wife, are on their annual four month holiday funded through his work as a clown. While he was dressed in civvies, his story was made believable by the multitude of ballons that kept appearing from his pockets. He gave me one and when I left the lake and promptly gave it to a little girl who ran after me starry-eyed at the sight of it, I got a glimpse of the joy he might take in making kids smile like that every day.
On day three, things came crashing down. I was so so so ill during the night that by noon the next day I couldn't even take a sip of water or sit up in bed. I can honestly say that being sick all on your own in a foreign room in a foreign part of the world is one of the more lonely experiences one can have. I wanted so badly to have a travel buddy - though I don't know what they could have done. It was for that reason that as soon as I could coordinate my body enough to get down two flights of stairs and into the lobby, I landed on the couch and didn't move for hours. It didn't make my body feel better but just being in a room with other people made a world of difference mentally.
Not too long after I crashed there, a slew of school kids who are part of the owner's family came and sat with me. They were so sweet and adorable that I had to act as if I was feeling better so I could hang out with them. At times it was a push (and I had to leave in a rush once to reaquaint myself with the banana and juice intended to soothe my stomach earlier) but they raised my spirits while simultaneously teaching me all about India, Hinduism, their family history, school life, and a variety of other topics. The oldest, Megha, was a superstar. She was so kind and caring. She was truly concerned about the overnight bus to Jaisalmer I was scheduled to take that night and patiently tried to explain the lack of services and resulting discomfort she worried I might suffer. When it appeared I would come back to life, she took me on a thorough tour of her home followed by a visit to the nearby temples. There she continued to educate me in the daily practices and prayers. She was so sweet, so interested in life, so passionate about learning, so awesome that I will always associate Udaipur with her perfect smile.
By nightfall, I was in stable condition as I made my way to the bus stand. There I bumped into the Brits from Jaipur again who were taking the same bus in the same direction. Suddenly I had two travel buddies who checked in on me and made me feel much less alone. By the time they left the bus, I had made friends with two new European dudes who took on that job for my time in Jaisalmer. So, as it turns out, the best way to not be alone is to travel alone.
The next day I took my first Indian train- the bustling station alone is an adventure in itself! Luckily I managed to get a window seat - much to the consternation of a lady who thought it was hers, a situation that resulted in me playing the role of a naive and apologetic tourist just doing what I was told - so I was able to watch to countryside for the entire six hour journey.
We arrived quite late so I shared a rickshaw with a guy from the train. The one nice thing about standing out as a tourist is that all the tourists stand out so it is easy to team up when things are new and uncertain. It makes things seem much less overwhelming! The guest house was pretty nice. Big rooms and private showers for 300 rupees (£4.50) which is a bit more then I wanted to spend really but was the best deal I could find. The owner was a strange little dude who refused to let us go to our rooms and instead insisted we hang out and chat on the rooftop restaurant (a common feature of Rajasthani hotels as it turns out). Mostly he wanted to feel out what services he could add on to our time at his place. In the end, he was genuinely nice to me so I think he is an ok guy, but that night I was just so tired of politely turning down offers of "help" and all I wanted was to be alone, not forced to chit chat with him and lie about my plans so he saw I didn't need anything. The tedium was lessened, however, by the spectacular view from the terrace. A truly beautiful city!
The experience the first night was the only really annoying one I had in Udaipur though. I found the town to be much less pushy than other places. I could happily peruse the goods at street stalls without anyone pressuring me or sometimes even being close at hand. I felt so free to walk around that it was essentially all I did for two of my three days.
The first day I wandered the streets taking pictures and chatting with locals. The second day- after spending five hours with the kindest, most patient travel agent in the history of the world who booked all my train tickets so I didn't have to repeat my time in Jaipur - I walked to the lake where the townspeople were washing their clothes, bathing, swimming and generally having a spectacular time enjoying the cool evening breeze just before sunset. I met an American guy and his little girl who, along with his wife, are on their annual four month holiday funded through his work as a clown. While he was dressed in civvies, his story was made believable by the multitude of ballons that kept appearing from his pockets. He gave me one and when I left the lake and promptly gave it to a little girl who ran after me starry-eyed at the sight of it, I got a glimpse of the joy he might take in making kids smile like that every day.
On day three, things came crashing down. I was so so so ill during the night that by noon the next day I couldn't even take a sip of water or sit up in bed. I can honestly say that being sick all on your own in a foreign room in a foreign part of the world is one of the more lonely experiences one can have. I wanted so badly to have a travel buddy - though I don't know what they could have done. It was for that reason that as soon as I could coordinate my body enough to get down two flights of stairs and into the lobby, I landed on the couch and didn't move for hours. It didn't make my body feel better but just being in a room with other people made a world of difference mentally.
Not too long after I crashed there, a slew of school kids who are part of the owner's family came and sat with me. They were so sweet and adorable that I had to act as if I was feeling better so I could hang out with them. At times it was a push (and I had to leave in a rush once to reaquaint myself with the banana and juice intended to soothe my stomach earlier) but they raised my spirits while simultaneously teaching me all about India, Hinduism, their family history, school life, and a variety of other topics. The oldest, Megha, was a superstar. She was so kind and caring. She was truly concerned about the overnight bus to Jaisalmer I was scheduled to take that night and patiently tried to explain the lack of services and resulting discomfort she worried I might suffer. When it appeared I would come back to life, she took me on a thorough tour of her home followed by a visit to the nearby temples. There she continued to educate me in the daily practices and prayers. She was so sweet, so interested in life, so passionate about learning, so awesome that I will always associate Udaipur with her perfect smile.
By nightfall, I was in stable condition as I made my way to the bus stand. There I bumped into the Brits from Jaipur again who were taking the same bus in the same direction. Suddenly I had two travel buddies who checked in on me and made me feel much less alone. By the time they left the bus, I had made friends with two new European dudes who took on that job for my time in Jaisalmer. So, as it turns out, the best way to not be alone is to travel alone.
Friday, March 30, 2012
Rajasthan #1 - Jaipur
Now that my time in India is nearly over, I suppose i should write about my first few days here. After a hectic first day in Delhi, the German boys and I learned that, while the trains were nearly impossible to book (leading to fears we would never be able to leave Delhi), buses to Rajasthan were much easier.
The journey from Delhi to Jaipur the next day was about seven hours. Despite my familiarity with chaotic London commutes, I was not prepared for the way they drive here. Not only do the buses swerve in and out of traffic with a fearlessness parallel only to that of teenage boys on speed bikes, they do it while constantly blaring their horns. I've learned in my time here it is best not to look at the road in front of you. Take in the views to the side, read a book, attempt to chat with your friendly-but-non-english-speaking neighbor - who may or may not take your postcard thinking it is a gift lol! - but just don't watch the driving. Consider yourself warned!
Our hotel owner - the same guy who, the following day, would lead one of the most bizarre yoga classes I've ever witnessed - picked us up at the station, which felt like quite the treat. The rooms were incredibly luxurious. Most definitelly out of my price range but for one night I made an exception. Mostly I was just too tired after the journey to go searching for a place. It worked out well though as the next day they let me put an extra bed in the boys' room for less than 1/3 of my price the first night. Win!!
Highlights of Jaipur included our rooftop restaurant and Jantar Mantar. We arrived absolutely starving the first night and were blessed with the presence of a perfect rooftop where I devoured a massive pile of fresh fruit and a bowl of chickpea salad - dressed with nothing but salt and lemon juice - fantastic!!! The Germans were great company and we stayed up on the roof for a couple of hours- mostly the dark as the restaurant people shut down around us - and had a grand time teaching each other words and phrases in our respective languages and laughing about our India experiences. The following night on the same rooftop we met a big group of foreigners who had all met in India to take a crash course in English. We also met two British boys who I would run into again multiple times in Udaipur.
The next day, after an eye opening visit to the railway station for me and an unintentionally long walk to the city center for the boys, we met at Jantar Mantar - India's (and they may have said even the world's) biggest sundial. Well actually it is a collection of massive solar instruments used for all sorts of measurements. It was fascinating to see how, by shadow alone, you can tell the time on any day of the year accurate to 20 seconds (ok, ok, only the sunny days of the year), the altitude and angle of the sun, and the current astrological period. Twelve of the instruments are used in a complicated fashion involving several readings, measures of degrees, a big book, and a star reading at night to generate horoscopes specific to individuals based on the minute of their birth. Not only an intellectually fascinating place, but one that is quite aesthetically pleasing. The brightly colored sundials rise from the ground in beautiful arcs as they catch the sun. The astrological tools scoop into the ground in giant fans of white marble. And most importantly the star sign instruments provide a place to take cheesy tourist photos :) - bonus points: the current sign was still mine, Pisces.
As with everywhere in India, the peace and tranquility of these places is heightened by the stark contrast of the hectic streets surrounding them. These oases provide a much needed break from the constant stream of rickshaws and pushy stall vendors. To be fair, these are some massively touristy places which are inherently chaotic and irritating. If you can learn to convincingly and yet kindly say no over and over and over without succumbing to the relentless appeals to lighten your wallet, you have arrived in real India. My biggest wish here is that I wasn't white and blonde so I could blend in with the crowd to observe life rather than have it thrust at me. But I digress. There will be time for reflections on India as a whole in a few days. Now onto Udaipur!
Wednesday, March 28, 2012
Taj Mahal
It seems a little ridiculous to write a post about my experience at the Taj Mahal without including any photos. Sadly, I don't have the means at the moment to do so, so I will just give you a brief summary and say that it is the most beautiful place I have ever seen in my life. I was absolutely blown away by how perfect it is. I don't remember a famous monument that hasn't let me down at the very least a tiny bit (and in some cases it's been downright heartbreaking) when I have actually seen it in person. The Taj Mahal is more stunning, more breathtaking, more awe-inspiring, more gorgeous than I could even have imagined. From the second we walked through the gate until the second we left, I could not get enough of it. Around every corner, I wanted to take another picture to try to capture its beauty (resulting in dozens of essentially the same shot haha!). With every change of light I fell in love again. I sat and stared at it for hours, trying not only to remember every possible detail about the moment, but attempting to convince myself that I was actually in the presence of something so transcendent. One of the most incredible experiences of my life!!!
Sept 2, 2012:
Finally getting some pics up!!!
Sept 2, 2012:
Finally getting some pics up!!!
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Stonework detail just outside the mausoleum entrance.
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Amritsar - The Golden Temple
I arrived in Amritsar around 10:30pm last night after one of the more interesting train rides to date. A kind woman from the train made sure to coordinate the cheapest possible transport for me to the Temple where they have free rooms (for a small donation - very very small, as in just about $1) and free food. As the last person to show up, there was only room for me on the floor but it was fine by me! I slept the best I have in the last several days of non-stop train travel. Tonight I even have my own bed. Perfection!
This morning I began the day with free breakfast. The machine that is the free kitchen is not only a sight to behold but provides one of the most interesting soundtracks I've witnessed so far. Hundreds of people volunteer to help prepare and serve the food, wash the dishes, and clean the floors. Metal plates, bowls and spoons are constantly in motion, water is always splashing somewhere, onions are being chopped, tea is being served, and amongst all these noises is the chatter of hundreds of people speaking and children laughing. A fascinating place!
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| *My own bed. Five star compared to sleeping on the floor on a thin duvet the night before. A pretty sweet deal for $1, no? |
This morning I began the day with free breakfast. The machine that is the free kitchen is not only a sight to behold but provides one of the most interesting soundtracks I've witnessed so far. Hundreds of people volunteer to help prepare and serve the food, wash the dishes, and clean the floors. Metal plates, bowls and spoons are constantly in motion, water is always splashing somewhere, onions are being chopped, tea is being served, and amongst all these noises is the chatter of hundreds of people speaking and children laughing. A fascinating place!
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| Preparing onions |
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| Eating in the dining hall. |
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| Deeeeeelicious FREE food and chai at the temple. The first serving freaked me out a bit as it is delivered from a ladle out of what looks like a not-so-recently-cleaned slop bucket. Despite appearances, it was actually incredibly tasty! I was more than mildly addicted to the white stuff. It was a kind of thin rice pudding with coconut bits and almond flakes. What I wouldn't give for some of that right now! |
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| Thousands of people = thousands of dishes |
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